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Canary islands - A Short Trip Into The Sun |
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Author: Markus Ziebell, Photos: Markus Ziebell
Translated by: Carmen Chaplin
Trip made by: Joachim Landrath, Markus Ziebell
This trip was made in February 2006
Trip time: one week
Dieser Reisebericht ist auch in deutscher Sprache verfügbar. Bitte folgen Sie diesem Link |
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A Short Trip Into The Sun:
A Sea Kayak Tour along the rugged eastern Coastlines of the Canary Islands
Lanzarote and Fuerteventura
A one-week trip from the northern tip of Lanzarote to the capital of
Fuerteventura, along the beautiful, rugged eastern coastline. |
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| Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, the two most eastern islands of the Canaries,are situated only about 120 kilometers off the African coast, off Southern Marocco. Due to the location and the pleasant temperatures all year round, it is a perfect if demanding sea kayak destination. |
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After having had to abort our paddling trip in the Danish South Sea theprevious winter because of storms and snowdrifts, we had chosen adestination in warmer climes this year. Internet searches revealed that the Canaries were perfect if demanding. It hadn't been easy to find an airline that was willing to carry our 5-and-a-half-meter kayaks. Then, we learned that suitable planes only land at Lanzarote and Fuerteventura. This information, combined with the fact that the wind blows from the north in February, settled it: we were going to paddle from the northern tip of Lanzarote to Fuertaventura's Puerto de Rosario. Well, that, at least, was the theory:
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In practice, we discover that the baggage-check-in at Düsseldorf airport isn't geared to dealing with such bulky baggage. So we end up dragging the boats up and down the terminals several times until a way is found to weigh them and check them in.
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While still in Germany, we had booked a taxi with a roof rack. Although the
plane is almost 40 minutes late, Jesus is still waiting by the entrance
with his old Mercedes estate car. After a quick stop-off to pick up petrol
for our stove and some drinking water, we arrive at the little harbour of
Orzola as early as 15.00 p.m. |
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| At the harbour, we spread our baggage out on the boat ramp, put it in order
and stow everything in the hatches of the two boats. The Atlantic greets us
with a 1.50-meter high breaker directly at the entrance of the harbour, but
we manage to get through unharmed. |
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It is incredible, at 10.00 a.m., we still stood in rainy Düsseldorf
airport, and only 7 hours later, we are rounding Punta Fariones' off-shore
rocks at the northern tip of Lanzarote with a light tailwind at our backs.
We spend another hour paddling past Caleta del Sebo, and reach a sheltered
beach at the south end of La Graciosa, below the peak of Montana Amarilla
volcano. There, in the twilight, we put up our tent right by the sandy beach.
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| First thing in the morning, we climb Montana Amarilla. From the top, you
get a good view all the way to the northern tip of La Graciosa, with its
few beaches and bad landing conditions. The steep rocks of the islands of Montana Clara and Roque del Infierno are visible in the distance. Even
though the weather report forecasts a strong wind from the south, we decide
to first round La Graciosa today, and to then carry on along Lanzarote's
eastern coast towards the south. |
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The swell is 2 to 3 meters high, and we have to keep a distance of a few
hundred meters from the coast, if we don't want to get thown against the
rocks by the surf. |
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Without stopping, we head back to Lanzarote and ride past Orzola towards
the south. This is where the Malpais de la Corona begins. During a volcanic
eruption, the flow of the lava reached widths of several kilometers and
pushed its way into the sea. As a result, the coast is rugged and craggy
and full of sharp-edged rocks. For a long time, we search for a place to
land. Finally, we find a little bay that is sheltered by an off-shore reef.
Nevertheless, we are still swept several meters across the sharp-edged lava
rocks by the waves. Luckily, our PE-boats are nearly indestructible. |
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The next day, we continue our tour. The conditions are still good, but the
weather forecast announces that this is the last quiet day before the
storm. There are plenty of impressive lava formations along this stretch,
but few spots for landing.
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